Brunello Cucinelli Spa

Good evening and welcome to the presentation of preliminary revenues for the nine months in 2025 of the fashion house Brunello Cucinelli. Speakers will be Brunello Cucinelli, Executive Chairman and Creative Director, Luca Lisandroni, CEO, Riccardo Stefanelli, CEO, Dario Pipitone, CFO, Moreno Ciarapica, Co-CFO Senior, and Pietro Arnaboldi, Investor Relations and Corporate Planning Director. In order to receive help from an operator during the conference call, please press star followed by zero. Now I would like to give the floor to Brunello Puccinetti. Good evening. It is a pleasure to have you all here, analysts, investors and journalists. This is the call to report on the preliminary results of the first nine months of the year, which we decided to bring forward by a few days in order to have the opportunity to discuss with you the company in detail and also to discuss together on the problem we have defined short selling activity. So we're all here, all 10 of us. How we would like the call to proceed? So I will read the main figures that we consider excellent. We will give you our final 2025 revenue and profit forecasts, which we are very satisfied with. And there is absolutely no change from the last August call. and you already know these figures because they are unchanged. Then we will dwell on 2026 forecasts after the closing of the spring-summer 26 men's and women's sales campaign and the performance of sales this autumn. And we have the feeling that everything is going very well both in terms of numbers and product image. Then Luca will give you a brief overview of the markets. And this too has not changed since late August. Then we will provide you with a summary of the fundamentals of our fashion house, a very essential and concise summary, as well as our business model. And then we will move on to the explanation and the discussion of the short-selling activity, which consists of inventory, number one, multi-brand, number two, exclusivity, number three, and Russia. The discussion is open. Do not worry about time. If more is needed, we are fully available. Now, let me read out the press release. Excellent results, totaling No, sorry, okay, let me read it out in full. Excellent revenue, totaling 1.019.6 billion euros, up plus 2.8% at current exchange rates, 11.3% at constant exchange rates compared to the first nine months of 2024. Very, very positive growth in the Americas, up 9.2%, 10.8% at constant exchange rates. Extremely solid in Europe. with an increase of 8.9%, 8.6% at constant exchange rates and very strong results in Asia, up 15.5% and the same at constant exchange rates. Excellent performance for the retail channel, up by 11.4% and very, very good for the wholesale channel, up by 9.7%. In Q3, sales reached €333 million, up 12% at current exchange rates and 12.4% at constant exchange rates. with an excellent increase of 13.8% in retail and still very, very good in wholesale at plus 9%. The results achieved in the first nine months, together with the excellent start of autumn-winter 2025 collection sales in stores, give us today an even clearer visibility and stronger confidence in achieving the targets set for 2025, with expected revenue growth around 10%, always accompanied by healthy and balanced profits. So, the Spring-Summer 2026 sales campaign ended, and it ended on a very positive note for both men's and women's collections. Very, very positive comments and feedback received from international press during last week's Milan Fashion Week. With renewed confidence, we therefore confirm expected revenue growth of around 10%, also for 2026. We confirm the presence of a just and balanced inventory, this is the way we defined it, just and balanced for our company identity, perfectly consistent with the fundamentals of our collection offering and aligned with historical data of our ready-to-wear fashion house since its listing in 2012. and to operate in the Russian market according to EU rules. The weight of this market amounts to 1.4% as of 30 September 2025 compared to 2.7% on 30 September 2024. 2.4% as of 31 December 2024. So this is how I commented. We closed the first nine months of the year with excellent revenue results, up 10.8% at current exchange rates and 11.3% at constant exchange rates. And given the quality of sales, we believe this also applies to profits. We feel that the brand image clearly reflects how we aim to live and work. The Women's Fashion Week in Milan has ended. Our collection received extremely positive reviews on style, craftsmanship, quality and exclusivity, and we are clearly very satisfied with this. In my life, I grew up with three great masters, the refined Gilles Sander, a German designer, the genius-like Ralph Lauren, and the visionary Giorgio Armani, and I nourished myself with their refinement, their genius, and immense poetic vision. So, last week was a week honoring the figure and work of the great Giorgio Armani. For all who love beauty, simplicity, understatement and work, he is a star. This star of the great Master Giorgio has extinguished on earth after shining for long among the most brilliant artists of our times. and from now on it will shine gloriously among important mortal spirits as the absolute symbol of Italian fashion. To him, the honour of the greats. Thank you, Master Giorgio. Of course, if in this week events we have defined as short-selling activity had not occurred, well, activity regarding a fashion house, it would have been preferable and a little less demanding for me, the two CEOs and for Pietro, but what happened is part of being listed on the stock exchange and its rules. On this matter I see countless messages of appreciation. For the rest, everything remained particularly special at the company. Perhaps we have had the most beautiful fashion week in our history in terms of number of journalists, celebrity talents and client presence from boutiques around the world, to whom we dedicated an exclusive evening like we usually do. So we therefore expect a year-end with healthy revenue growth of around 10% and consequently proper profits. And given the results of the Spring-Summer 2026 sales campaign and the way it performed, which we consider excellent, and given the winter collection sell-out, which is going very, very well, We envisage 2026 revenue growth of around 10%. Now, I keep clearing my throat because of this sudden increasing of temperatures. So how we see year end? You already know everything from the 28th of August cold. No significant material changes. So revenue growth around 10%. EBIT margin slightly improved compared to 2024. Very significant investments in artisanal production and the doubling of the Solomeo headquarters almost completed and already operational. Planned in the 24, 25, 26 three-year period but brought forward by about six months. So we will end everything this year. So this year we have invested around 10.5% of revenue. But this gives us security, hopefully, for the next 10 years. Please note, and I will say it once again, our investment plans for 26 and 2027 should be normal, considered normal, of around 7%, because this is our standard. Clearly, when expanding factories, well, these are always long-term projects. In this case, it amounts to 10 years. Now, 2026 forecasts. So excellent order collection for the spring, summer, men's and women's lines. I would also say excellent in terms of taste, style, visual merchandising and lifestyle. And you know how important this is because 75% is ready to wear and 25% is lifestyle. You know how important this topic is because the feedback of multi-brand stores on the collections guides our own orders for our retail boutiques in that specific market. And it also highlights the collection's value. When they turn up at the doorstep, they look at the collection, they say, is it beautiful, modern or slightly repetitive? This means that if you go back home and you integrate new styles to place in your stores for the upcoming season accordingly, then it is always a good thing. Very, very positive sell-outs in our boutiques and multi-brand stores even in the last week after the report. And we will discuss in detail later. As you know, we have around 450,000, 500,000 end customers. Now, inventory, its incidence, sorry, let me sip some water. So inventory around 28, 29% of yearly sales. This has always been a healthy level because we make clothing and we find it fresh and contemporary. Otherwise, it would mean that stores have outdated goods and sales would not perform as they are. because we call it inventory, but actually it amounts to the goods that are displayed in the stores. That's in line with the June 30th values, so we feel sound and contemporary in style and lifestyle. So dividends typically around 50% of profits. Very, very possible.

fell out for this fall winter. We're very, very positive. So it's now the end of September, so we understand that and how it works. So please remember this is an important thing. Should I tell you about last week's Fashion Week in Milano? As we looked at the collections and as we talked to customers who came for orders at our showroom, The air was slightly positive. It was certainly on the plus side. So that means that taste for the product in our boutiques are very contemporary. We have noticed that customers stay in boutiques around 30 minutes as against the 15 minutes in the past. which shows that the way we welcome people, hospitality wise, cappuccino and kindness of sales staff are very important. So spending 30 minutes at the store is really, really interesting for us. There are three major events planned for this year, and the highlights are the Fashion Oscar, which will be awarded to me on December 1st in London by the British Fashion Council, together with the world premiere of the documentary film about my life on December 4th in Cinecittà, directed by Maestro Giuseppe Tornatore and with the music by my friend Nicola Piovani, both Oscar Prize winners. I think this will actually be a major image building event and so all these events will give us great productivity and it will boost our health around 10% with solid profit. Now, let me talk about the company setup. Just one minute to explain the company organization, because sometimes I hear people asking, what happens after Brunello? Now, with my family, we hold 50.1% of the shares. And it's subdivided as follows. Myself, I'm 72 years old. I'm the executive chairman and creative director. 80% of my time is dedicated to products. And 20% sees me traveling around the world for events and clients and so on. Ricardo, who's the son of my daughter, is the CEO together with Luca. And he's the father of two grandsons and granddaughters. Luca, the co-seer of Luca, is the only non-family member. We consider him like family. Camilla and Carolina are both vice presidents and responsible for product and image. Carolina was recently awarded with a very important prize in New York, and so we are very proud of this. Alessio, her husband and the father of a grandson, is another important component of the band team. Federica, my wife, is 71 years old. We've been together for 55 years now. So we're responsible together with Camila and Carolina for all the events that happen in the village. For us, our borgo, our little town, Sonoma, is very, very important. Finally, the trust. Camilla and Carolina are the beneficiaries of the Irreversible English Inspired Trust with three company advisors. And I established this trust when I was 59 years old. So I started thinking about my heritage when I was that young. This allows me to operate freely while alive, but the day after my death, Camilla, Carolina and the three advisors of people working with us will make their own decisions. So this is going to continue for 20 years after I die. So don't be alarmed. As soon as I die, the morning after my passing, everything will be organized and the company will keep on working in a fully organized way. Let's now see some key figures of our fashion house. Revenue 50% men, 50% women, 40% multi-brand, 60% mono-brand. 3,300 employees, half in solo male, half in stores worldwide. 400 artists and companies representing our production soul. We are a ready-to-wear company, 85% is ready-to-wear and 15% accessories, and this was the same when we went public in 2012. This is what we are today, made in Italy, in the absolute luxury segment, where we see quality, craftsmanship, creativity, minor skills, and extremely important, exclusivity. And exclusivity is a fundamental thing for us, and we'll discuss it further. Our business model and the big fundamentals we believe in are always unchanged. Our business model has not changed over time. We will keep the company alive in Salome for the next 200 years. We want healthy annual revenue growth, healthy profits. We want better workplaces, better salaries, where human beings feel like they're thinking souls. In particular, we do support manual labour. So who's going to be a factory worker in the future? What parents will encourage their children to become factory workers? I think in the future, the challenge will not really be who we sell to, but who will produce such special items made in Italy. Now, Riccardo, for the next two minutes, can you please update us about the connection with the 400 providers and suppliers that are our soul? Thank you, Brunello. Good evening, everyone. We consider those 400 little companies that Brunello mentioned as the real duels of Made in Italy. We wanted you to understand this because we have a direct personal relationship with them. We've never relied on platforms. We always build a day-in, day-out connection and dialogue with these companies. based on product quality, but also on the quality of our work and human relationships. And frankly, it's really nice to see that each and every one of them really subscribes to those same principles. And over the last few days we've been reminding ourselves about this all the time. The Constitution of Italy at Article 36 says explicitly that all workers are entitled to receive a salary proportional to the quantity and quality of their work. which in any case should be sufficient to grant them a free and dignified existence for themselves and their families. Now this is a fundamental principle of our country and it's even more important for a supply chain like the one we have in Italy that's been built over time. So this is true for us as a company and for us as a brand. We want to protect these companies and their profit-making skills and abilities and the possibility to plan their future, which is so important for leader companies. Actually, next Friday we're going to meet with all of them here in Sonomeo. We talked about the excellent spring-summer campaign, which means it's their work from October to May, so it's going to be very important for them to plan carefully. So we do believe that the supply chain is top quality today and for the future. And maybe 70% of French brands do actually manufacture in Estonian cells. maybe with the recommendation that's very important for them and us. Let's support the supply chain. Let's make sure that our artisans can work in beautiful places, that they make the correct profit, they receive a suitable salary, and especially for younger people, they may consider Italian manufacturing not just as hope, but as a real life opportunity. Finally, e-commerce is so important for us. Towards the mid of November, by November, We will publish our first e-commerce AI-powered website. And I think it's going to be special because it will be able to welcome all visitors in a very personalized way and show people the art of the collection, which is more relevant for them. It's a bit like kind of a make-to-measure experience. Okay, thank you. Let's now move on to a discussion on what we call a short-selling activity. We feel that the thesis suggested shows a major critical issue with our inventory which has been called bloated. Bleeding to discounted multi-brand sales and consequently loss of exclusivity and has the necessity of doing this also in Russia where in the first nine months revenue is currently 1.4%. So how do we define this? Bloated inventory, multi-brand, not respecting rules with discounts, loss of exclusivity and need to sell to Russia to reduce inventory and generate revenue. So let's look at topic one, the inventory. In our 47 year history of the company, inventory has always been 28 to 30% of revenues. Since our 2012 IPO, this has always been the case. Today it is between 28 and 29%. So we've never believed in evergreen products, because we believe they don't lend contemporaneity to the brand, except for some iconic items, mainly accessories, but not ready-to-wear. So this is what we've always believed. thought and we sell 85% ready to wear so there's no code which is fashion this year and never green next year. A bloated inventory means carrying goods that are not really contemporary in the stores which would mean that both products and stores would be less charming, less fascinating and so hard to sell. Today, we feel balanced, and sales in stores are very, very good, and we are happy with the image. It appears to be very contemporary, both in store windows and inside stores. At the time, in 2012, 27% was retail and 73% multi-brand. Today, we sell about 60% through retail and 40% through multi-brand, but the inventory ratio remains the same. The Edmure production is just under 2 million units all made in Italy. They are limited and expensive. Our estimated customers are anywhere between 450,000 and 500,000 people, which means they roughly buy 4 pieces per person per year. Of these 2 million pieces in production, 40% goes to multi-brand stores that have no return rights, i.e. about 800,000 pieces. The remaining 60%, which is 1.2 million pieces, go to our direct stores. So you can easily understand that our unsold inventory is a limited number. And also we have a beautiful project, which is Junello Fruccinelli for Humanity, which was first created in 2020 during pandemics to support the lucky part of mankind. And besides that, we have sales to our employees and friends and family sales. So the amount of sales inventory pieces is actually well balanced for our business. Of course, a problem may arise when sales stagnate, which would be a very different situation. Inventory quality reflects the management quality and the contemporaneity of the brand. Of course, our highly artisanal production is concentrated in our micro-companies, 70% of them in Umbria, the rest in the rest of Italy, and this gives us flexibility, security and speed. So this production model with our 8,400 artisans provides us with a very good level of security. Now, another important topic is multi-brands. We were born with multi-brand stores. That's been our story forever. Today we have around 400 stores, multi-brand stores worldwide, beautiful, very beautiful, very prestigious materials. They built our image around the beginning. And if we are what we are today, it is largely thanks to them. We believe over the decades their behaviour has been extremely reliable and inspiring. When we encounter issues in their behaviour, we point it out and if necessary stop collaboration. But this has been very, very rare throughout their history, maybe due to their economic difficulties. Let me just make a little example, considering Hermes and Chanel. I mention the two brands because I think there are two great brands that have always inspired me, undoubtedly amongst the most beloved brands in the world. I was carefully following when I was younger. even though it was really hard to find them, the interviews of Monsieur Jean-Louis Dunras. And they were fascinating when he said, I want to feel responsible for everything that leaves our maison. It was beautiful. Mr. Karl Lagerfelder inspired me to do what I do today, a creative director. which is something that perhaps you do, you can do even at an advanced age where you lose creativity but not your taste and still be the beacon, the guiding light for your brand and co-workers. These wonderful brands have grown for more than a century, been present in the world's most prestigious multi-brand stores. So we would never be able to think that these beautiful multi-brands would not respect the brands they collaborate with. And this, we can say, based on our direct experience.

And so important multi-brand stores in your foundation. Sachs, 1869. Goodman, 1899. Neiman Marcus, 1907. Hirschleif, 1910. Mitchell's. 1958. In Germany, Unger, 1878. Brown, 1933. Daimaru in Japan, 1717. Isetan, 1886. Takashimaya, 1831. Hankyu, 1929. In Hong Kong, Lane, 1850. in italy nuni 1920 tiziana faust in 1946. why have i listed all these because they are wonderful multi-brands the history of multibrand stores is ancient as ancient as the world and until about 20 years ago almost everything happened and was sold through multi-brand to the multibrand channel This is what we have experienced with our company. Even today, important exclusive watch brands are sold through multi-brand stores. I always cite my favorite Vacheron Constantin. Well, at the end of the season, of course, they might discount some items, for example, mismatched sizes, seasonal pieces, but they are very, very careful. because their image is at stake. Over the decades travelling the world I have never seen anything harmful to the brands. Perhaps today with technology something more could happen, but it is really not relevant. Multi brand stores are the true guardians of the brands. They provide you an honest feedback of your collection and the contemporaneity of your brand and this is crucial to understand how your brand is really, whether it is healthy or not. And as we heard in Milan, if the feedback is not very positive, then you go back home and you make some tweaks and changes. They have viewed 300 different collections, so therefore their judgment is not the same as valuable as the store directors, but not seeing other brands' collections. They're true critics. But if you have the courage to listen, their criticism is always very constructive. When our team travels worldwide for research, we almost always visit multibrand stores seeking inspiration and exclusivity. So we restate once again our belief in multibrand. Another very important topic, one minute on exclusivity. Well, this is a major topic. I once read Which brands will be truly exclusive in five years time? We have discussed this extensively with our team as we do it on an actual daily basis. It's something we work on. Exclusivity is synonymous with limited quantity, hard to find, very well made items with a very high, highly recognised image, possibly heirlooms and expensive. In Italian, exclusivity is being replaced with desirability. But these are two very strikingly different concepts. Exclusivity means it is hard to preserve over time as the company grows. Desirability is something that is easy to find but highly desired. For example, my friend Eddie Q today, he gifted me with his iPhone. I showed it to my granddaughter and she was really thrilled. And I said, yes, I agree, but this is not exclusive. So for our company, we have always opted for exclusivity combined with healthy annual growth, proper profits, ethical production, better workplaces and adequate salaries. Balanced numbers of new stores, openings each year appropriate to our brand. Then, fourth topic, very important, Russia, necessity of sales at all costs in Russia. Luca will explain this in detail. Thank you, Brunello. In just a few minutes, with just a handful of numbers, we would like to give you a very clear scope of our activity in Russia. Let's start from the beginning. the start of 2022 when the conflict broke out we decided to tackle the situation the same way we did with the pandemic meaning protecting our people and our partners in the ukraine we We always had a wholesale activity, never retail, always with multi-brand stores and a monobrand store in franchising. So our focus and attention has always been focused on offering the utmost support to these partners. and since the beginning we have always appreciated their courage and determination to continue their operations also in the darkest days. In Russia we always had a two-fold activity, retail on the one hand and wholesale on the other. Let's start from the retail. Precisely Well, just before the war we had just renewed our network with three new flagship stores in terms of size and they were to represent the image of our brand on the Russian market. In March 2022 we decided to close these points of sale and they have remained so until now. This network in Russia also includes two spaces in multi-brand stores and they stayed open. What kind of product have these two small stores sold, smaller than the three flagship stores that are closed? The product that we had shipped before the introduction of the, before the start of the conflict and the product with a worth less than the threshold set by the sanctions. We would like to recall that sanctions never introduced an obligation to close down the store or to stop a shipment, but they just identified a value of 300 euros as a statistical value, meaning the value beyond which articles, items could no longer be shipped to the market in question. And statistical value means a value of transfer. And for the sake of clarity, You should remember that to move from the transfer value to the retail value of the very same item, we have to multiply three times, sometimes even higher. so the revenues generated in these two spaces together with the one in our showrooms in these one-to-one appointments between our sales people and our loyal customers this generated the results of our Russian subsidiary and from Year after year, we have always shown these figures in the accounts of our Russian subsidiary. This for retail. Now, wholesale. The wholesale activity is limited to the shipment to Russian multi-brand stores of items that are lower in terms of value of this 300 euros. We have never even envisaged or imagined to make special products just to be included within the allowed range. And we have always checked that everything was proper and correct. The retail revenues, if we compare this with the shipment, multiply this, sorry, by the shipment in Italy, we arrive to 14.8 million generated in the Russian market until September 30th, matching the 1.4% of our revenues. No, so just to give you any other figures, in the first six months of 2024 it was 1.7 and if we take a look at the whole 2024 it was 2.4. We believe that these numbers already properly describe this revenues growth that was consistent between 2022 and today. We use this We use this decrease. To give you an image of that, Russian business is like a candle that it is melting hand in hand with the use of the inventory we had in Russia and the reduction in the number of employees. We had over 70 employees before the war and today 44. due to the voluntary departure of many other people who decided to move elsewhere. So once the revenues has been cleared, let's take a look at shipments. And so the volume of trades, we basically used weight, although this is not a measure that we, a parameter that we use, but we can say that since 2021 and 2024, our shipment to Russia dropped by 52%. So in a very consistent way with the revenues performance that we just described. Now, just one last remark. When we take a look at the growth that our company enjoyed in the past few years, Undoubtedly, at world global level, retail was at the forefront. The multi-brand channel grew consistently, definitely, but in a lesser proportional way than the retail. And we believe that this number can also reassure you of the fact that we did not force at all the multi-brand market. So I would now like to stop here. So to wrap up, first thing first, Well, we can say that we could have done without the short selling activity after such a great week in Milan. But today I should have started my English lesson a week ago. Thank God this is postponed now. What do we want to say? The company is working normally. Tomorrow we will have an employee general meeting to explain everything to our employees, although they're already very well informed. We can say that we have four very important events expecting us in Korea, in Japan, in London, events at Harrods, and then the award, this prize that I will be honoured with, and then on December the 4th in Rome we have the pre-screening of the movie. So we are pretty confident, especially because the collection has received great feedback. So we now live in the certainty that in the coming months there will be beautiful products displayed on the shelves. And now we open for discussion. Thank you. Chorus Call Operator speaking. We will now start the Q&A session. Whoever wants to ask a question please press star followed by 1 on your phone. In order to exit the booking list you can press star followed by 2. Please speak into your microphone. Whoever wants to ask a question please press star followed by 1 now. There will be a few seconds of silence in order for questions to be booked. The first question from Andrea Randone in Termonte. The floor is yours. Yes, good evening. Good evening, Brunello. I have two questions. One on the business and the other one on Russia. Business. So, very good numbers there. It was... Perhaps a further comment on revenues in Asia that were particularly buoyant. Perhaps you can give us some colours on this and specifically Japan and if something has to be reported, pointed out on retail or wholesale or if everything is or not. Second question, very interesting details you provided on Russia and As an outsider, I wonder what are these customs checks? Did something specific happen in the past few days or are you just talking about, you know, the regular frequent checks? Yes, let's start from here. Lucas speaking, so nothing special over the past few days. So, we have had over 100 custom checks since 2022 always. What kind of checks are these? Well, the documentation first, the documents, the accompanying documents. Secondly, sometimes to what extent the price matches the pricing of shipments to other countries, and there was nothing to report on these, never. As to your comment on results, we had nine months that were particularly positive and there are linear results and for this reason all the comments that we shared in August still hold true. So today we basically defined America's results very good and there was no impact on the willing to shop or on the purchases. Brunello travelled to Europe very often and he was met with beautiful multi-brand stores and yes, multi-brands are working hard in order to identify special goods and excellent results in Asia and China that we called a strong modern and balanced market. Andrea. you see in China revenues amount to 13%. But we came back from Milan and after speaking to all the different Asian markets, we came back with confidence, but definitely not on the last day because that's when we learned the news. And then to conclude, Japan, last year was a special year for Japan, but this year too it keeps being a great contributor. Yes, it was very special last year.